FuoriBorgo

Provençal markets

I shop at street markets frequently, not only because I can find goods there that aren't available elsewhere, but also because I'm a true market lover: I enjoy strolling among the stalls filled with their diverse goods, and hearing the cheerful chatter of the vendors, not mere salespeople but proud proprietors of their stalls.  Yet I've never been so impressed by markets as the ones we saw in Provence, where vendors were selling genuine products of their craft and expertise, that couldn't be farther from look-alike, mass-produced goods one so often sees.

We visited the street markets in Cotignac and in Aups, and in both places found goods and crafts for sale that came straight from the heart of the region, which seemed to represent its beauty, its history, its cultural and creative essence.  This man was master of a craft that's hard to find nowadays: working quickly and skillfully with his hands, he'd mend or remake the straw bottom or back of a chair, as well as weaving baskets on request.

Among the many special products we saw, from cheese and saffron to fabrics and pottery and so much more, this Artist of Nature really captured our interest.  He carves kitchen bowls, salt shakers, mortars and pestles, and other kitchen utensils from olive wood.  Olive wood is aesthetically magnificent, with its dense, richly textured grain, so shiny and smooth to the touch.

I can say for sure that it's smooth to the touch, because I fell in love with the above bowl, and the artist insisted that each of us hold it and stroke it to experience its amazing texture.  It was made out of a single piece of wood, which in itself is quite special, as olive trees grow slowly and their trunk tends to twist and gnarl, making a piece of wood of this size a rarity.  Unfortunately, it was a little out of our price range, so we settled for a beautiful olive-wood plate which I'll soon find an excuse to blog (I in fact own already a small olive wood chopping board which I've showed a few times here and here - I'm a true olive wood fan!).   Artisans de la nature also have a little shop on line here.

These were the first markets that the boys ever really enjoyed - they spent a long time in both, without a word of complaint.  Probably because they were busy eating the many samples which the stall-keepers set out for passersby, a very nice practice that I'd never seen in a street market before.  Nicholas spent a long time at the salami stall, while Jeremy was fascinated by truffles, and was offered a thin slice, which he declared delicious ... after learning how much truffles cost.  And Rebecca?  She went straight to stall selling the kind of colorful wicker bags and baskets we saw the French do their shopping with.  I sense the two of us will have a lot of fun in markets together when she grows older!

Family travel

 

Traveling as a family has always been important to us, but since Rebecca was born our travel has been restricted because of her health: Provence was our first real (though small) trip as a family of five.  It turned out so well, and reminded us what family travel is all about: the relaxed rhythm and lack of a fixed schedule, the discovering new places and learning new things together, and simply spending all that time with each other.

We tend to travel light, bringing no toys and such for the kids (except the magnetic chess board on intercontinental flights), partly because of our aversion to carrying stuff and gear - as I explained here - and partly because we found there's always so much around us to intrigue and entertain the kids if we look (and Tom has a wonderful ability to engage even the crankiest, tiredest, most jet-lagged child!).  In this trip we were very lucky, and wonderful entertainment was often available just in the street: a man playing the accordion who showed Jeremy his instrument, a little choir singing in a shady square, and several other street concerts that we we stopped to enjoy.   

Still, when we travel as a family we do make many compromises to take everybody's needs into account: we mix sightseeing with local treats (ice cream being the universal favorite), and road trips with a good dose of play breaks.  We blend culture and nature, alternating museums and cathedrals with outdoor walks and water fun (streams, the sea or a swimming pool are a must in summertime).  For dinner we try to find a restaurant with some outdoor space that will serve dinner early, even if they serve ... French fries!

It works well for us, and our kids have thoroughly enjoyed our family trips.  I like to think that even if they won't remember some of the places we've visited, they will remember that travel is a special experience, and that there's always more to see and learn, if you remain curious and keep your eyes open.

The colors of Provence

We had such a rich experience in France, touring the eastern part of Provence.  While I take a little breath and mull over the things we saw and experienced, the colors of Provence in this season seem a good place to start.  Being immersed in the vibrant colors of the landscape, of the villagescapes and decors, of the markets and of the people themselves, was part of what made our trip striking and memorable.

 

The colors in this part of Provence start from the earth: the rich red soil, the contrasting purple of the fragrant lavender fields and the bright green of the vines, the frosted green olive trees and the deep green woods.

The colors of the landscape also flow into the towns and villages, where lush plants and flowers abound, complimenting the buildings with their bright shutters and pastel walls, some brightly colored, others delicately faded with age.

There's something invigorating about the crisp, dry Provençal air and the sparkling light, about how the old is reborn in everyday life.

With my mind and my dreams still full of the vivid colors of Provence, I sometimes catch myself thinking it might be nice to ... become Provençal!

Corner View ~ music

"Listen, listen to the music of the cricket, its song is many centuries old...."  With these words our puppeteer friend began the last dress rehearsal of his new play, to the music of one cricket playing in the background, which immediately captivated the attention of the children in the audience.

 

The new play of his theater company, Teatrino dell'Erba Matta, tells the story of Aladdin and the genie of the lamp, and how the spirit trapped inside was set free: the music centuries old that can free the emotions inside each of us, if we learn to listen. 

 

I hope my children will become adults who can listen to the music.

I'll be in France until tomorrow, so I'll be late visiting your music views!

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For more corner views:
jane, ladybug-zen, ian, bonnie, esti, sophie, cele, modsquad,caitlin, joyce, ani, kim, a day that is dessert, natsumi, epe, kaylovesvintage, trinsch, c.t., jeannette, outi, schanett, ritva, francesca, state of bliss, jennifer, dana, denise, cabrizette, bohemia girl, dianna, isabelle, amber, a girl in the yellow shoes, mister e, janis, kari, jgy, skymring, elizabeth, audrey, allison, lise, cate, mon, victoria, crescent moon, erin, otli, amy, ida, caroline, lisa, dorte, kimmie, la lune dans le ciel, nicola, malo, vanessa, britta, virgina, april, b, kyndale samantha, karen, kristina, dorit, goldensunfamily, sophie, janet, mcgillicutty, desiree, di, travelingmama, aimee, sunnymama, amanda, ali, jenell, guusje, britta, juanita, pamela, inna, daan, myrtille, cris, ibb, susi, jodi, lily, gillian, jeanette, athena, pienduzz, latisha, clairette, satsuki

aurvoir!

What to pack when going to France with three kids cramped in a small car for several hours?  My favorite linen dresses, because it's summertime!  My favorite handbag, so impractical, but such beautiful fabric.  And my favorite necklace: all three kids are finally over the age when necklace-pulling is a style deterrent!

A bientôt!

Zucchini time

Every year in summer time my enthusiasm for cooking, in deep hibernation during the winter, awakens.  Probably because of the fresh produce from our garden (when deer don't get to it first), and the new herbs that are available: when I'm in the garden looking at what's ripe, seeing the colors and smelling the scents of spring and summer, a million ideas and cooking possibilities come to mind.  This never happens in winter, when I stare at the content of my fridge with an empty mind.  There's something alive and vibrant in the garden that is conducive to culinary creativity, my favorite kind of cooking!

It's lucky that I feel this way, because this year we're enjoying an exceptionally abundant crop of zucchini.  Zucchini are such a wonderful and rewarding plant: they require very little work, and never get attacked by pests (at least not here).  Just give them plenty of water and they'll start producing.  They produce, produce, and produce: these days we're picking 10-12 of them every day.  Sometimes one wishes they'd slow down a little. 

 

So, what do we do with all those zucchini?  First of all, we always compliment zucchini with fresh herbs - parsley, basil, marjoram, chives, sage and thyme will bring out exceptional flavors.  Also, if you grow your own zucchini, don't forget to use the flowers, picking them early morning when they're fully open: they make a wonderful embellishment, as well as a tasty hors d'oeuvre. 

Here are some of our favorite dishes, mostly adapted from local recipes.  

Fried Zucchini Flowers

 
(photo while still cooking: fried zucchini flowers don't last long in my house once they come out of the pan!)

Discard the stems, dip in a beer batter and fry.  A sage leaf inside each flower is a great addition.

Zucchini frittata

Ingredients: sliced zucchini, chopped parsley, chives, basil and thyme, eggs and Parmesan whisked together with a little milk.  Lay the zucchini flowers over your frittata halfway through cooking.

Spaghetti with zucchini and clams

Spaghetti sauce made with grated zucchini, garlic, parsley, a splash of white wine, chili peppers and shelled clams (my little people dislike having to fiddle with shells, preferring to dig straight into the edibles!).

Stuffed Zucchini

Steam-cook zucchini, scoop out inside and blend with marjoram, garlic, egg, parmesan, and bread crumbs.  Fill zucchini shells and bake.

These are a few of our family favorites.  Do you have any favorite zucchini recipes?

Corner View ~ street fashion

I probably live in the only corner of Italy where the concept of street fashion doesn't exist.  In the farming village where I live, there's a practical approach to clothes that has nothing to do with style or design. 

 

My neighbors dress in layers according to the weather: more layers to keep warm in winter, fewer layers in summer to keep cool but protected from the sun.  

Like their hands and bodies, weathered by a life spent working in the fields, my neighbors' clothes are well worn.  No garment goes to waste:  they're forever being mended, patched or repurposed, and a simple sewing kit - with which amazing projects are accomplished - is always at hand on the kitchen table.

Their clothes aren't handmade to start with, though.  Street fashion in our rural community begins right in the street, where the above van parks once a month, to sell simple and practical clothes - all exclusively made in Italy, as the salesman likes to repeat.  The van is a complete shop on wheels, that opened for business three generations ago, when the grandfather of the current salesman began driving to isolated villages throughout the region and selling clothes.  

In our village, only a few kilometers inland from the Mediterranean, the tradition of thrift runs deeper than fashion.

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For more Corner Views hosted by jane:

jane, ladybug-zen, ian, bonnie, esti, sophie, cele, modsquad,caitlin, joyce, ani, kim, a day that is dessert, natsumi, epe, kaylovesvintage, trinsch, c.t., jeannette, outi, schanett, ritva, francesca, state of bliss, jennifer, dana,denise, cabrizette, bohemia girl, ruth, dianna, isabelle, amber, a girl in the yellow shoes, mister e, janis, kari, jgy, jenna, skymring, elizabeth, audrey, allison, lise, cate, mon, victoria, crescent moon, erin, otli, amy, ida, caroline, lisa, dorte, kimmie, la lune dans le ciel, nicola, malo, vanessa,britta, virgina, april, rebecca, b, kyndale samantha, karen, kristina, angelina, dorit, goldensunfamily, sophie, janet, mcgillicutty, desiree, di, travelingmama, aimee, sunnymama amanda, ali, jenell, guusje, britta, juanita, pamela, inna, daan, myrtille, cris, ibb, susi, jodi, lily, gillian, doobleh-vay

Sweating it

Nicholas had quite a full sporting day yesterday.  And so did we, as we took him from event to event, waited around, sat, watched and cheered.

 

In the morning he ran a race at the nearest town. It started at 11am: the sun was blazing, not a breath of air.  As you can see from the photo, Nicholas was the only one running by the end.  He wasn't the only participant, though.  The "race" turned out to be a long-distance run around a soccer field.  After two laps, one boy was sick, and a few minutes later boy after boy, overheated and exhausted, started dropping like flies.  An argument arose between the organizer of the event and a concerned city councilman and sponsor, and the race was ended after 2 miles.  Only Nicholas and two other boys finished the race.  I couldn't ask him right away how he was doing, because he was busy drinking from the irrigation spout - there wasn't any drinking water.  Hopefully it was potable irrigation water, I didn't ask.

Sometimes I find our Italian "improvised" way of doing things a little tiresome.  I have a sense that in other countries, especially when kids are involved, things would have gone a little differently.  There would have been plenty of water, at the very least, and sun hats, and training in advance, and a cooler time of day would have been chosen to hold the race ... Well, for once I felt very happy about the boys' intensive tennis and athletics training: evidently Nicholas is fit!  

Later in the afternoon, Nicholas played in a tennis tournament, and things didn't go quite so well.  So we all went out for a pizza dinner, a well-deserved reward both for the athlete and for his faithful audience! 

Circles and sundresses

I find that I'm drawn to circles, roundness, soft contours of flowers.  So much nice symbolism there: the moon, the eternal cycle with no beginning and no end, the disk of the sun ... perhaps the circle is more of a summery shape because of some of its associations, but in truth I like it all year round, and in fabric patterns I much prefer it to checks and stripes.  

So I couldn't resist two beautiful pieces of cotton fabric with striking circle motives which I found at my favorite stall at the market.  I made a couple of summer sundresses in size 3-4T which Rebecca at 2 and a half is modeling, although they are a bit big on her.  They are very easy to slip on, pullover style with no buttons or zippers to fiddle with, and tie with adjustable knots at the shoulders. 

The first is a summer circle sundress, and is made with the softest sateen cotton that has many different circles printed in the tones of chocolate brown, beige, black, gray and white. 

The other is a white floral sundress bordered with a striking textured applique cotton tape spiraling in circles in the shape of dreamy flowers and  leaves.

They are in my shop.

Some space

My main problem with finding time for sewing and other projects is that they require either a dedicated workspace or a chunk of time, two things that in our small house and busy family life are hard to come by.  But this spring, I claimed ¾ of the kitchen table for my own use, and moved our family meals and table activities outside onto our little rooftop terrace (like we normally do in the summertime).

Our terrace is small and not very pretty, though it has great views over the valley and the surrounding hills.  Still, it's amazing how useful it is to be able to move some of our activities - not to mention the clutter - outside.  Useful especially to me:  I just cluttered the freshly de-cluttered kitchen table with my sewing machine, patterns, and fabrics, and I don't have to put anything away ... so long as the good weather lasts, anyway!

The terrace is L shaped, with a clothes line and a rack for drying laundry on one side, and on the other an umbrella and a small round plastic table with chairs.  After ten years outside, the table has gone gray and ugly, and I have to cover it with a tablecloth.  Now, all of my tablecloths are rectangular, and how do you round a rectangle?   I found that if I tie knots in the four corners, a rectangular tablecloth conforms nicely to a round surface, and even gives our shabby little table a surprisingly stylish look.   (It also hides the ugly plastic legs!)

The umbrella is crucial to making the terrace usable, since there's no shade otherwise, and the sun can be fierce.  However, the wind up the valley can be strong, and nearly carried off our umbrella several times.  So I went on eBay and I found a 30-kilo (80-pound) cast-iron umbrella stand.

The delivery guy who got the job of lugging the umbrella stand up to our hilltop home wasn't too thrilled with how isolated we were.  As he drove up from the nearest town he called several times, in tones of increasing annoyance.  When he finally turned up at my doorstep, which is at the top of a steep path, he tried to get me to go and pick up my 30-kilo package at his van, parked down on the dirt road below. 

For once I was glad I looked so "homely": tired and holding a small crying baby in diapers on my hip.  To his credit, he didn't argue long, and soon went to collect my stand, though on his return he warned me that he'd throw away any more packages to be delivered to my address.  And I don't think he was joking.  Mind you, I could see his point - I've felt exactly the same many times during the last ten years, when I've had to carry babies or grocery bags or both up to the house.  But I couldn't do without the babies, and we need to eat.

I was actually going to show you some work I've just completed ... I guess I'll do that tomorrow!  Have a good day!